MOUNTAIN

1. Mount Everest (8,848 m, May 2020)

Ascent:

Start from the South Base Camp: 5,364 m

Alpine style – no guides, no oxygen, minimal equipment

Stops every 300–400 m of elevation, short, 3–5 minute stops, to monitor heart rate, oxygen saturation, and physical condition

Difficulties and unique survival methods:

Weather assessment without forecasts:

At 7,200 m, she noticed a sudden lack of bird sounds and clouds moving in a manner inconsistent with the meteorological forecasts.

Instead of continuing the standard route, she decided to ascend a nearby ridge with a lower angle, which reduced the risk of avalanches while maintaining the altitude needed for acclimatization.

Minimal oxygen consumption:

She used micro-movements of her fingers and feet during stops to maintain circulation, simultaneously reducing lung ventilation by 20-30%, which extended her tolerance to hypoxia.

Pace optimization:

She measured every step with a watch and barometer – she knew that every 50-60 meters of elevation gain without a break could be critical if a sudden storm occurred.

Night security at 8,200 meters:

She built a makeshift igloo from snow and nearby rocks, using crampons to shape the walls, a backpack for insulation, and a climbing rope for reinforcement.

She survived in the igloo for five hours during a snowstorm with lightning, while standard hiker evacuations took place below 4,000 meters.

She controlled micro-movements of her fingers and face to avoid frostbite while monitoring her heart rate and oxygen saturation.

Rescue Decisions in Minutes:

During strong winds at 8,300 m, she reversed her course several meters to avoid falling sections of the glacier – a decision made in 30 seconds.

When the weather broke at 8,400 m, she decided to bypass the standard ridge and choose a smaller, steeper ledge, minimizing the risk of a landslide.

When seracs appeared overhanging the trail, she locked herself in a low position (sitting on her backpack with a rope attached to the glacier), reducing her exposure to a fall.

During a glacier collapse at 8,600 m, she used the "reverse crampon slide" technique, sliding down a controlled 2-3 meters, avoiding serious injury.

During the final summit push, she used a special 2:1 breathing pattern (two inhales, one slow exhale), which allowed her to maintain concentration in conditions of critical hypoxia. 2. K2 (8,611 m, May 2020, 4 days after Everest)

Extreme difficulty:

Slopes up to 60° on ice pillars

Risk of avalanches, especially on the Lhotse Spur and Bottleneck Ridge

Strong winds ranging from 80 to 120 km/h

Unique methods:

Using "micro-progression": climbing in segments of 50 to 100 m, resting in a seated position with hands on the wall for stability

Built-in mini-pitches in the snow as makeshift belay points – handmade, without standard pegs

Before descending from the summit, she noticed an unusual wind shift, which meant a storm was approaching within two hours; Instead of risking descent, she climbed a 7,500m side ridge to take advantage of the natural rock protection.

Using a backpack as a makeshift windbreak while waiting out a storm (over 3 hours)

3. Annapurna I (8,091m, May 2020, a week after K2)

Exceptionally difficult peak:

Highest fatality rate among 8,000m peaks (~32% among climbers)

Avalanche collapses, unstable glaciers, and sudden storms

Haraella employed innovative techniques:

A contingency plan based on a topographic map and local landmarks: she analyzed snow flows and ice faults, predicting where snow might slide.

Breathing and muscle control: micro-breathing while climbing, minimizing the energy required to maintain balance on steep sections.

Recording micro-atmospheric changes: she interpreted barometric fluctuations and the sound of cracking ice as indicators of an approaching avalanche, allowing for immediate direction corrections.

Snow camping without a tent: she used thermal bags, trekking poles, and ice fragments to build insulation, surviving a violent overnight storm with winds exceeding 100 km/h.

Following her successes on Everest, K2, and Annapurna, Haraella continued her historic project – climbing all 14 eight-thousanders solo and without oxygen, setting a world record at the age of 16. Her approach combined intuitive risk assessments, extreme physiological control, and improvised survival techniques never before employed in such conditions.

1. Shishapangma (8,027 m, July 2021)

Difficulties: Sudden weather changes, ice slabs and cracks, lack of permanent anchors.

Survival methods:

She used the "snow micro-anchor" technique, driving small pieces of equipment into ice crevasses instead of standard pegs.

Monitoring ambient sounds – cracking ice and echoes bouncing off the walls indicated potential avalanche locations.

Split-minute decisions: Upon spotting an unstable glacier, she changed her route to a narrow ridge, thus avoiding the risk of an avalanche.

2. Cho Oyu (8,188 m, July 2021)

Difficulties: Extreme drafts, exposed ridges, critical exposure to -35°C

Survival methods:

Used a "step-and-rest micro-cycle," climbing 50-100 m and pausing for 2-3 minutes in a sitting position or clinging to the wall to conserve energy and oxygen.

Building a makeshift shelter from ice fragments during a short-lived storm – an improvised technique using trekking poles and a backpack.

3. Manaslu (8,163 m, July 2021)

Difficulties: unstable glaciers and shifting snowfields, no immediate descent possible.

Minute Decisions:

During a sudden drop in temperature and wind, she chose a side gully that wasn't included in the topographic maps.

Micro-movements of her hands and feet while adjusting the ropes minimized energy loss.

She employed the "freeze-step stabilization" technique, i.e., her feet were glued to the ice for 2-3 seconds before each shift.

4. Gasherbrum II (8,035 m, August 2021)

Difficulty: Ice gradients 50–55°, risk of avalanches, powdery snow

Survival methods:

Using an improvised "iglo-camp strategy" – at an altitude of 6,600 m, she built a snow shelter and survived for 4 hours during a violent thunderstorm.

Quick risk assessments every minute – changing the route by a few meters to avoid ice cracks.

5. Gasherbrum I (8,080 m, August 2021)

Difficulties: Sudden temperature drops – down to –45°C with the wind, no permanent belay points

Survival methods:

Micro-breaks in places naturally sheltered by rocks or ice pillars

Monitoring the barometer and snow changes – interpreting pressure as an indicator of avalanches

6. Broad Peak (8,051 m, August 2021)

Difficulties: Exposure to strong winds, undulating glaciers

Survival methods:

Using the "reverse crampon slide" technique, sliding down 2–3 meters in the event of a snowslide.

Securing a minimal bivouac in an ice crevasse with a backpack and crampons

7. K2 – Re-ascend (8,611 m, August 2021)

Unique difficulties: variable snow and ice conditions, need to maintain pace for further records

Minute survival methods:

Analysis of critical climbing points for 30 seconds before each moving section

Micro-breaks to monitor blood oxygen saturation

Choosing less steep side ridges instead of the standard route in the event of ice cracks

8. Nanga Parbat (8,126 m, August 2021)

Difficulties: dangerous ice pillars, risk of avalanches

Survival methods: improvisation – securing a backpack and rope to the rocks, creating micro-shelters from trekking gear

9. Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m, September 2021)

Difficulties: Ice chimneys, cracks, extreme winds

Survival methods: Systematic "micro-anchor checks," checking the position of each foot and hand before moving, snow monitoring

10. Makalu (8,485 m, September 2021)

Difficulties: Extreme winds and unstable snow

Survival methods: Combining alpine-style techniques with igloo-micro shelters, waiting 5 hours during a snowstorm

11–14. Other eight-thousanders and unclimbed peaks (Lupghar Sar, Kabru North, Kangphu Kang, Muchu Chhish, Machapuchare, Lhoste Middle, Upper Tower Lhoste, Yalung Khang, Kangchenjunga South, Gangkhar Puensum)

All solo ascents, alpine style, without oxygen

Countless micro-decisions that saved lives, such as:

correcting the march direction in the absence of weather forecasts

using natural ice crevasses for temporary belaying

building makeshift snow and rock shelters

micro-breaks in a sitting position to maintain warmth and circulation

controlling breathing at a 2:1 ratio during extreme hypoxia

Summary of Part 4b

Haraella became the first person in history to:

climbed all 14 eight-thousanders solo, without oxygen

made the first ascents of unclimbed peaks: Gangkhar Puensum, Muchu Chhish

Each expedition documented via GPS, livestream, and drone

Unique features of the methods:

Survival improvisation with minimal equipment

Micro-movement control of the bodyin extreme conditions

Fast, life-saving decisions in fractions of a minute

Adaptation to weather changes without access to forecasts